EF to m4/3 adaptor
Part of the appeal of the Micro 4/3 (m4/3) format used on the Olympus E-P1 is that it’s highly adaptable. I think it might be the most adaptable lens mount to date, in that just about any lens ever produced can be mounted onto a m4/3 camera like the E-P1 as long as you have the right adaptor(s).
Pictured above is the Canon EF to m4/3 adaptor (taken with E-P1 at 84mm equivalent, 1/2 second shutter speed–thank you, in-camera image stabilization!), which is used to mount Canon EF lenses onto a m4/3 camera. The label says “EOS-m4/3″, but I believe the correct terminology is “EF” instead of “EOS” since “EF” is the name of the actual lens mount. Pedantic much? Why yes–yes indeed. As a Canon user, I can now mount all of my Canon EF lenses onto my E-P1.
I bought this adaptor on eBay from user “jinfinance” for $80-ish + insured shipping. It’s a solid, nicely machined chunk of metal with no sharp edges, and it looks sturdy enough to stand up to some of the heavier lenses. I’d never, say, mount a 300mm f/2.8 on it and hold the combo by the camera end, but for more reasonable combos I have no concerns about build quality and durability.
EF side
m4/3 side
The very serious limitation of this adaptor (and all EF to m4/3 adaptors that I know of) is that it has no electrical connections. It’s simply a tube to stick the lens onto, and without those electrical connections you can’t change the aperture on the lens since EF lenses have no mechanical aperture ring. You have to shoot with wide open aperture all the time. There’s a workaround that I’ve read about where you set the aperture on a Canon camera, press depth-of-field preview button on the camera, and detach the lens while still pressing the button, but I’m not excited about that–impractical and potentially harmful for your lens. I might get up the courage to try it one day, but for now I’ll pass. Oh, and you have to manually focus all lenses–you lose autofocus ability when mounting these lenses onto a m4/3 camera.
Focus-by-wire lenses like the 85mm f/1.2 L won’t change focus at all because the focusing mechanism needs electrical current to work. You could use focus-by-wire lenses I suppose, but you’d have to set the focus distance on a Canon camera, move the lens to the m4/3 camera, then move your position back and forth depending on your subject to get it in focus. Lens image stabilization doesn’t work either since it also requires electrical current.
So with all of these limitations, what’s the point? Because we can! No, seriously. Why ever climb a mountain–because it’s there. Ok, so maybe not quite like that. Using a lens wide open isn’t such a bad limitation if it’s a lens and/or shooting situation where you’d most likely be using it wide open anyway like for portrait photography.
But honestly for me the point is that it’s fun. The E-P1 is my fun camera. I already have these Canon EF lenses that I love to use with my Canon 5D. Now I can also play around with them on the E-P1. And with the in-camera image stabilization of the E-P1, every lens I put on there is image stabilized, which makes it easier to handhold shots at longer focal lengths and/or lower shutter speeds. Take for example this excellent combination:
E-P1 + Sigma 50-500mm
So yeah, that’s obviously mainly for the amusement factor. Big lens fully extended + tiny camera = hilarity. I’m shallow like that. Ridiculousness aside, I tried this combo and it worked well. With the 2x crop factor of the E-P1 sensor, the angle of view produced with this combo is the same as a 100-1000mm zoom lens on a fullframe camera like the 5D (50mm x 2 = 100mm, 500mm x 2 = 1000mm). 1000mm! That’s one thousand millimeters focal length. One of these days I’ll take this silly combo out for a spin shooting at the zoo or something, but for now I’m satisfied with the fact that it does indeed work. Definitely a hold-it-by-the-tripod-collar combo, but it works.
Of course there are more practical combos, some of which fill gaps in the still young m4/3 lens lineup. For instance, there’s no short telephoto portrait lens in the lineup right now.
E-P1 + Canon 35mm f/1.4L
The Canon 35L becomes a 70mm equivalent lens on the E-P1. It’s not quite the now-traditional 85mm focal length often favored for portrait photography, but it’s close enough and it’s f/1.4 wide open, which should allow for pleasing separation of subject from background. 70mm not long enough?
E-P1 + Canon 85mm f/1.8
This is a 170mm equivalent combo. And remember: it’s image stabilized, as are all lenses! And the real portrait monster:
E-P1 + Canon 135mm f/2L
270mm f/2 IS (IS = “Image Stabilization”, in Canon parlance). Canon’s closest lenses to this are the 200mm f/2L IS and the 300mm f/2.8L IS, both of which are upwards of $4000. The 135L, on the other hand, I bought for less than $700 a few years ago in slightly worn (lettering toward the front of the lens is fading) but perfectly working condition. Sweet. I just had to take this out for a spin, so here are the completely-devoid-of-any-artistic-merit test shots I took around our back yard just for kicks:
Shot with E-P1 + Canon 135L
Shot with E-P1 + Canon 135L
Shot with E-P1 + Canon 135L
Shot with E-P1 + Canon 135L
Shot with E-P1 + Canon 135L
Shot with E-P1 + Canon 135L
It works! Not much more to be said, really. Lenses perform just as well as I expect them to perform wide open on a Canon camera. One note though: manual focusing with EF lenses totally stinks. The lenses are geared toward fast autofocus, so the focus rings have short throws–even a small turn of the focus ring makes a big change in focus position, making it difficult to fine-tune the focus. This doesn’t seem to be as much of a problem with, say, the 35L as it is with the 135L, but it’s an issue that’s good to know about ahead of time if you plan on messing around with an EF-to-m4/3 adaptor.
With the m4/3 lens lineup still missing some crucial lenses, the EF-to-m4/3 adaptor alleviates some of the angst of waiting for Olympus and Panasonic to get their act together on the lens front. No point in buying one if you don’t already have Canon EF lenses, but if you’ve already got them this is a fun accessory to add to your m4/3 camera.
As a Canon EOS user, I have my fair share of EF lens. The m4/3 system is very appealing for a “compact” travel lens until Oly/Pana will come out with an UWA fast prime.
How did you claim that your EF lens will retain IS when there are no electrical connections for the lens? The IS needs power to operate. No? Just curious.
Like you shooting wide open is fine with me.
JC,
The IS is in-body, not in-lens. Since the E-P1 has in-body IS, it applies the IS to every lens mounted to it–no electrical contacts necessary! The appeal of m4/3 for me is like it is for you–compact travel and every day kit.
Panasonic has just unveiled their 20mm f/1.7 (40mm equivalent). 40mm isn’t an UWA, but f/1.7 is certainly fast. On their roadmap in 2010 is a 14mm (28mm equivalent) f/2.8. I’m guessing that’s the closest we’ll get to a fast UWA for the near future.
I’m still waiting for Olympus to make an affordable UWA zoom (the Panasonic 7-14 is a bit spendy) and affordable short tele for portraits (again Panasonic’s 45mm macro isn’t cheap). I consider those the biggest gaps right now if you’re not willing to spend big money, which I’m not.
Thanks man, realised what you meant just after what I posted.
I’m eyeing the Pana GF1, except that the pana would not have in body IS. Not exactly a deal breaker though. Its a better packaged unit with built in flash
Only thing missing is that UWA, something like 8mm (16mm) with a fast f1.7 or less would be ideal, especially for a travel camera. Poor mans’ rangefinder so they say….but like you said, Pana’s lenses are very spendy.
GF1 is looking pretty sweet. Lack of IS isn’t a deal-breaker, but since I already have the E-P1 with in-body IS I probably won’t give it up. I’ve already encountered quite a few shooting situations where it’s been a shot-saver–either letting me get the shot at all, or allowing me to use a lower ISO and lower shutter speed. Still, the fast AF of the GF1 is pretty tempting. Other than AF vs. IS, I think the E-P1 and GF1 are more similar than different.
I’m not crazy about the built-in flash. GN6? That’s a pretty weak flash. I’m ok with the GN14 Olympus FL-14 for now. I rarely use flash with this camera, but when I do I’d like to have at least a bit of power. Any word on how much that optional EVF will cost?
Weak or not, sometimes you do need it. The point of a travel camera is not having to lug all the accesories with it. ;p. If I know I need more than what either these 2 can do, chances are i’ll be lugging my 40D w/ 50mm f1.4
The GF1′s AF and the noise control is commendable though.
Now that the Leica X1 has just been announced there is another choice albeit a really expensive alternative to the Sigma DP2. Too bad the X1 maxes out at f/2.8 and 35mm
Don’t get me started on that Leica X1. I could get a GF1 + 20mm f/1.7 kit and a 7-14mm for that kind of money and really round out my m4/3 kit! Leica really are ridiculous, although I wouldn’t turn down a free M9
GF1 AF vs. E-P1 IS… tough choice. Get both?
I purchased an adapter from a different party and it fits lens and camera fine, but the camera is not able to see anything at all. Any suggestions? I did set for MF, raised ISO, no light getting through even when I point at a light bulb. There is no obstruction. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Debbie,
Do you mean there’s absolutely no picture on the LCD? Bizarre. The adapter type shouldn’t matter. This is going to be the dumbest question ever, but did you forget to take off the lens cap? That’s really the only way I can see no light getting through. Glass is glass, and some light should be making it to the sensor. Even if it’s severely misfocused you’d still be able to see the light color change as you moved the camera around to point at different objects.
There truly is no light being seen and yes, I did make sure the lens cap was off. I’ll try again. Perhaps I should try the lens reset function? Any other suggestions? Thanks for responding. The camera works beautifully with the 14-42mm kit, so I know the camera is in good working order.
P.S. – The lens I am attaching is the Canon EF 50mm F/1.8
Tried again – turned camera on, no lens or adapter attached – can see light on LCD. Attached adapter – no lens attached – no obstruction – no light appears on LCD. Am wondering of dimensions of my adapter vs. the one you are using BUT still feel I should be detecting some light when pointing directly at a light source.
Debbie, that’s so strange. I’d love to be of more help, but without the adapter in front of me to fiddle with I’m afraid I don’t have any concrete answers–only guesses. I agree with you that without any obstructions the LCD should be showing something, even if it’s just a blurry blob of color. My only guess right now is maybe the adapter is constructed/designed poorly to where it touches the lens contacts inside the camera and is shorting out those connectors causing the camera to misinterpret what’s going on and shut down the live-view signal. When you attach just the adapter can you still see the brass colored lens pins inside the camera when you look through the opening? If not, that might be the culprit. There are 11 pins, by the way.
I really appreciate your attempt to help. This is a Cirrus adapter and I will be returning it as I still can’t get it to work. I am able to see the lens pins when it is attached. Thanks for trying – it was wonderful that you took the time to respond. In Manual Focus I still see nothing on the LCD and it will not take a photo.
Debbie,
I have a Panasonic Lumix G1, and I use it with an Canon FD adapter. I have a Canon 50mm f1.4 and a Tokina 24mm f2.8. These are manual, old-school lenses. Since there is no electronic connections between the camera and lens, I had to activate “Shoot W/O Lens” option in the camera.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Luis
I’m considering the e-p1 for £200 just for the fact that it maximises the benefit from the long ‘ef’ fit lenses I already have (Bigma and 200mm f2.8L) plus it gives me HD video which will be great for holidays and the beach.
I currently have the EOS 40D and i’m sure this will remain the main body as it’s quick and with the 200mm f2.8L is lightning fast for sport etc (dont think the e-p1 can compete on this front). I like taking pics of wildlife and aircraft so the extra reach from the 2x body definately appeals for little outlay and minimal space in the camera bag. How much does a 400mm f2.8L lens and a 1000mm f6.3 cost vs £250 for the e-p1 and a adapter!
Love the photo of the e-p1 and bigma by the way
AD,
Thanks for the comments. E-P1 has been awesome for me, but like you I’m not getting rid of my Canon gear anytime soon. For one thing the AF speed on m4/3 will have to get much faster before I can even consider that. Then there’s the whole high ISO issue–it’s not bad, but it’s obviously not as good as FF. But for a lot of my personal shooting the E-P1 has become my go-to camera by virtue of its small size, good image quality, and video ability. My whole m4/3 kit weighs less than my 5D + 35L!
The E-P1 + Bigma is rather comical, isn’t it?
this is great : I do commercial work but have been having a ball with my Panasonic GF2 – I was looking around for info on using Canon lens with an adapter and voila’ cheers and good luck. . .n